yes being 30 days late will hurt you currently, but as time passes with on time payments and no more 30 days past due this account will report back to a R1.

Also, if this is the first time you are 30 days past due you can phone the creditor and they may remove the late mark and refund the late fee if they charged one..

If you have several lates then yes it may affect you at a later time getting a car

as for a mortgage generally they only look at the last two years of activity on your file.

Keep paying on time and this will not hurt you in the long run -

Good Luck
I am an employee of one of the three credit reporting agencies

Anyone out there with a good strategy for repaying the money I borrowed for tuition?

I am currently enrolled in debt consolidation program because I lived to frivolously in my youth.

I am also one of the primary homecare providers for a terminally ill parent.

Thank you for your suggestions in advance!

I am gainfully employed but have other monthly expenses such as a mortgage.

getting out of debt is pretty easy with a debt consolidation plan

however it may get a bit tricky at times, I suggest you get as much information as possible online on this first,

a good place to start in my humble opinion is:

http://umgarticles.atspace.com/debt-consolidation.htm

a couple of years ago I took an debt consolidation plan, however I made some errors, luckily for you they are all tackled in this article.

good luck

Yes. Write a letter explaining why you need a reduction in payment, and propose a new payment plan. If you are in good standing, many lenders will agree. Get the letter notarized before sending it.

You can also look on the lenders website if they have one, they may have a Q&A section that addresses this specific problem.

We have a fixed rate FHA mortgage. How many years do we need to pay into it before refinancing will help lower our monthly bill?

NONE. As long as you can convince a new lender to loan you enough to pay of the old mortgage, you can refinance the day after you close on the first loan. Naturally, that NEVER makes practical sense, but it is 100% legal.

The interest rate and refinancing costs are what determine if refinancing is worth while. You can’t predict the change in interest rates based on the age of the loan.

I am looking for ways to save money and use less energy.

Shut off your AC when your not using it, get florescent light bulbs. insulate your attic, install low flow toilets and faucets. Leave your AC on a regulated temp. (we can all stand it just a little warmer) If you can’t replace your toilets, then you can put a brick or two in the tank, that will cut down on water, shorten your shower time, catch and store rain water for watering your yard.

What are some ways to lower electric bill and go green ?

Well there are many ways you can lower electric bill and go green. Start of by using energy efficient light bulbs and turning off game consoles and computers when not in use. l

Secondly I’ve cut my electric bill by 92% by making my own solar panels and wind mills. I did it for under $200 bucks.

I found this site. Tell me if it helps
http://60243941k707hxb0lmv2hkcxbi.hop.clickbank.net/

I was recently out of work for months and credit is destroyed. didn’t pay any credits cards and had truck reposed.(to worried about shelter and food)anyway,It isn’t really a huge amount compared to alot of people, however question is as far as trying to rebuild my credit in future is it better to consolidate and pay it all off or bankruptcy?

Ask your parents if they have a credit card with a large limit. If they have a 50,000 limit see if they can write you a check using an 0% interest for one year or 2.99% until balance paid off. If they do, pay as much as you can on it. Avoid bankruptcy it will damage your credit severly and possibly stop you from getting certain jobs.

Assuming the credit rate is excellent and falls under high income. Also the house price would be under 300k. If there are any mortgage lenders, could you suggest what is the current interest rate that you could estimate?
Thank you.

how much money are you putting down and what terms do you want, 30 year fixed, 15 year fixed, FHA/VA, conventional or USDA?

I heard someone at an energy conference refer to a study that showed that going to a one size thicker wire in a home — I am assuming on the American wire gauge, AWG, system — will lead to a significant drop in home electrical energy usage. I write "significant" because the percentage was so big I can’t remember it exactly.
I heard someone at an energy conference refer to a study that showed that going to a one size thicker wire in a home — I am assuming on the American wire gauge, AWG, system — will lead to a significant drop in home electrical energy usage. I write "significant" because the percentage was so big I can’t remember it exactly.

WILL THE POWER CONSUMED BY A SPECIFIC ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE OVER TIME i.e. ENERGY BE REFLECTED IN THE METER.

A 100 WATT BULB LEFT ON FOR 1 HOUR USES 100 WATT-HOURS OF ENERGY (.1 KILOWATT-HOURS). WILL THE METER ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSE REFLECT THIS OR BE SIGNIFICANTLY GREATER?

With the operative word being "significant", the answer for residential applications is "NO".

There are some losses in the wiring in your home, but based on residential loads, this value is rather minimal.

All practical conductors have some resistance to them. Ohm’s Law tells us that if we pass a current through a "resistor", there is a voltage drop. E = I x R. For example, you might have 120 volts at the service entrance panel, but on the other side of the house the voltage might drop to 117 V when a large appliance is running.

Some people refer to these as the I²R losses. Current squared times the conductor resistance.

I recall an article several years ago where they did a case study with the lighting circuits in a commercial building. Since non-residential electric rates include a demand charge, the article described how increasing the wiring by one size could lower the customer’s kW demand charge along with lowering the kWh losses associated with the voltage drop in the line. In the example, the customer had dedicated lighting circuits with signifcant load that was on for 8000 hours a year. That’s over 90% of the year!

See the link below for similar examples and calculations. Sorry, but the link from the Copper Development Association (CDA) is not working. I’ve included the link below in the event it begins working the future.

——— "Additional Details" comments

A 100 watt lightbulb does not always consumes 100 watts. In reality the bulb’s filiment has a specific resistance. If the incoming voltage is less than anticipated, the resulting consumption (by the bulb) will be lower than 100 watts.

To further confuse things… A motor is a constant power device. When the voltage drops, your Central AC motor is going to draw more current to maintain constant power. The increased current increases the I²R losses described above.

All in all, the short duration usage patterns of residential customers make the savings VERY small. Replacing your wiring would not provide a reasonable payback. Upsizing during new construction may ultimately pay off on some circuits in the home, but be a waste of money on others.

This could seem a little "Big Brother is Watching You" but if you could get lower electric bills simply by going to the gym and when there, plugging in a little memory stick into the machine which records your workout – would you do it?

Not only would it give you added incentive to keep fit – "…shaves££ of your bills and inches off your waist", it may also assist the growing obesity crisis we seem to be facing.

It’d be non-compulsory, so, would you sign up for it?

Brilliant. Save cash on a thing you like doing.You should be a politician.